Holy Family Militia

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Fig. A: "Ein Canadischer Bauer", [A Canadian Farmer] ca. 1778, after Frederick von Germann. Note the very simplistic Ñ and impractical Ñ style of the farmer's leggings.

   American colonists living along the frontier probably adopted leggings from these early Indians. In a sketch attributed to Frederick von German (ca. 1778) and titled "Ein Canadischer Bauer" [A Canadian Farmer] we see a man in a short blanket coat or capote with stripped leggings reaching from the ankle to mid-thigh. The leggings are held in place by garters tied just below the knee (fig. A).(4) These don't seem very practical, as the ankles are left completely exposed and the loose-fitting leggings would actually serve to snag debris and deflect it into the moccasins. The tight-fitting Indian-style leggings mentioned above would have been much more serviceable to colonists living in the rugged wilds of America.

   Leggings were also used by the British military as early as 1757. In reference to the 55th of Foot (Colonel George Augustus Howe's Regiment) Colonel John Knox writes: "... the officers and soldiers were supplied with the kind of gaiters like those worn by the Indians and Canadians and called Mituzzes." On December 12th, 1758, Knox gives us a more full description of these: "The Colonel is ordered to provide the regiment with ... leggers, or Indian stockings; here follows a description of them: Leggers, Leggins, or Indian spatterdashes, are usually made of frize [Frieze], or other coarse woolen cloth; they should be at least three quarters of a yard in length; each Leggin about three quarters wide (which is three by three) then double it, and sew it together from end to end, within four, five or six inches of the outside selvages, fitting this long, narrow bag to the shape of the leg; the flaps to be on the outside, which serve to wrap over the skin [shin?], or fore-part of the leg, tied round under the knee, and above the ancle [sic], with garters of the same colour; by which the legs are preserved from fatal accidents ...".(5)

   Although dating from the French and Indian War ­ almost twenty years prior to our period of portrayal ­ Knox's description provides us with authentic instructions on how to make leggings. "Frieze" is defined as "a course woolen napped cloth", and from contemporary manufacturing descriptions it was apparently rather fuzzy.(6) "Three quarters of a yard" is 27 inches square, which is a perfect length ­ reaching to the upper-thigh ­ for a person of average height, which in the 18th-century was around 5' 7".(7) Knox's reference: "The flaps to be on the outside ..." at first appears a little confusing, but simply means that the excess material, or seam allowance, is exposed (wrong-side out) rather than being worn to the inside of the garment (right-side out). From Knox's description these flaps (and therefore the seam) apparently went to the front of the leg. This makes perfect sense as it would allow the foot and toes to protrude out between the flaps, yet allow the sides of the legging to cover the entire foot. Most of the Indian leggings depicted in period sources show the flaps to the side of the leg, but several contemporary engravings of Seminole and Cherokee Indians show the seams to the front as suggested by Knox.(8) The final product is illustrated on the next page (fig B). This style of legging was clearly intended to be worn with moccasins and is most appropriate for native American or frontier impressions.

   For military use, some minor "additions" were made in the design to improve the fit and function when worn over the military shoe. Once again we turn to Knox: "The army have made ingenious addition to them, by putting a tongue, or sloped piece before, as there is in the lower part of a spatterdash; and a strap fixed to it under the heart of the foot, which fastens under the outside ancle [sic] with a button. For my part, I think them clumsy and not at all military; yet I confess they are highly necessary in North America; nevertheless, if they were made without the flap, and to button on the outside of the leg, in like manner as the spatterdash, they would answer full as well: but this is matter of opinion."(9) Knox's improved, military-style of legging is shown in (fig. C).

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NOTE:

In our search for more civilized coverings for ones self we found some Native American leggings we felt would provide protection for ourselves that the others lacked.

One pair of leggins we found at the Museum of Native American History in Pottstown PA were owned by a Lennie Lenape gentleman of the 18th century, from the style and attachment at the waist, being longer in that they reach the crouch says this design has a European influence. This was decided for several reasons, the first being that they were made of European leather and not the usual Indian tanned product. The second reason is they have the usual center seam seen worn by this tribe and several others in this region, but made longer and a different means of attachment. They are made with belt loops that would hold the legging and the clout suggesting a white man’s method of securing the coverings. see (fig. B1).

I made a pair of "spatterdashers" based on the above specifications and I can tell you that when properly fitted to the leg as directed these simply cannot be put on while wearing footware. This simple design of legging were found to be very practical in that they cover ones hips, with the clout in place very little bare skin is exposed (the reason for experts thinking that this is a modified version with European influence).

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   At the beginning of the American Revolution the British again adopted the legging. For campaign, tall gaiters were being phased out in favor of the half-gaiter or spatterdash, but when on picket duty in cold weather, wool leggings were often employed. On 29 June 1775, the following order was recorded in General Howe's orderly book: "The Men's Leggings are also to be sent for and to be wore on Duty, & a proportion of Watchcoats sufficient in severe weather to Shelter the Men on Guards and out lying Picquets." On 28 September, 1775, another order from Howe states: "The Commanding Officers of Corps will take care to provide their Men Immediately with Leggins, Caps, & other warm Cloathing against the Winter." These leggings were not simply a wool version of the usually linen gaiters, as on November 17 of the same year Howe (by now Commander-in-Chief of the British Army) ordered: "The Guards to Mount in Leggins or [emphasis mine] Cloth Gaiters till further Orders."(10) This entry clearly shows that leggings and cloth (wool) gaiters were considered as two different articles of clothing.

   Leggings continued to be utilized by the British military throughout the American War for independence. On October 17, 1776, the 17th Regiment of Foot's orderly book states: "... the men to have warm stockings ... to wear under the trousers or Leggins." In May of 1778, the 7th of foot issued similar orders: "The black leggins are not to be worn, only on duties or Field days."(11) The latter entry indicates that the leggings were primarily used for fatigue wear, probably as a way of preserving the highly polished gaiters for formal functions and reviews.

   There are also many other references to leggings and "cloth for leggings" being issued to the British regulars and the Provincial corps serving in Canada, Georgia, and New York later in the war. These documents mention various colors, with brown and blue being the most common. The second battalion of the Royal Highland Emigrants (84th foot) was wearing blue leggings in 1775, and in 1776, the first battalion of the 84th was issued "green cloth for leggings."(12)

Fig. C1: A British Soldier (probably of the 47th Foot) after Hunter. Note the tall leggings, which are identical to those described by Knox as shown in fig."C".

   Besides numerous entries, orders, and descriptions, there is also contemporary pictorial evidence of military leggings in our period. James Hunter was an assistant engineer in the Burgoyne expedition. In 1777, Hunter made a watercolor sketch entitled "A View of Ticonderoga from a Point on the North Shore of Lake Champlain". Hunter's sketch shows two men wearing leggings identical to the modified version mentioned by Captain Knox nearly two decades earlier. One soldier in the Hunter sketch wears blue and the other tan leggings ­ the latter possibly made from buckskin. The soldier wearing blue leggings has white facings and is quite possibly a member of the 47th Regiment of foot (Fig C1). In 1778, the 47th received 447.5 yards of legging material and 32.5 dozen buttons. Each legging required about one yard, so the cloth received would have made up a maximum of 223 pairs of leggings. With only 390 buttons provided, each legging could only have had one button ­ which perfectly conforms to both Knox's 1758 description and the 47th soldier depicted in the 1777 Hunter sketch!(13)

Fig. E: A British Sentry in Canada, ca. 1778, after a sketch by Frederick von Germann. The leggings are blue in the original illustration.

   Leggings are also shown in the von Germann drawing of a British sentry, ca. 1778 (fig. E). It appears that by this time someone had picked up on Captain Knox's advice from the previous American war, as the "button on the outside of the leg, in like manner as the spatterdash," is plainly visible here. These buttons running up the leg would have allowed the snug-fitting legging to be put on and taken off without removing the shoes like with an overall or gaitered trouser). Note that the "flaps" have now disappeared, and the seam has probably moved around to the side to accommodate the buttons. By my experiment, five buttons are adequate to close an eight or nine-inch opening, which is about the minimum needed to get a shod foot through the legging (fig. D).(14)

   In early 1777, the men under Burgoyne's command were ordered to cut their coats into jackets and convert their hats to caps as shown in the sketch reproduced here.18

   The British military were not the only ones to adopt leggings. In his general orders from Cambridge Massachusetts on July 24, 1775, General Washington specifically recommended "Indian Leggings" to be worn by his troops as they were more durable than stockings.(15) Whether or not this order was carried out is uncertain, but in some New England colonies the local inhabitants gave their extra blankets to the soldiers, and with clothing shortages plaguing Washington's Army, it is almost certain that some of these were pressed into service as a pair of leggings.(16)

   In the Continental service, hard currency was scarce, and at least one officer sold his leather boots to a British prisoner and donned a pair of leggings instead: "... after [General Brickett] had taken a pair of shoes out of his saddle bags ... and had got a pair of country boots to put on, which are pieces of cloth folded round the leg, and tied at the knee and ancle [as in fig. B?]... he mounted his horse, rode forwards on, and on our halt ... completed his bargain, and parted with his boots." The price Brickett charged for these boots was one guinea in gold, which in the period was equal to 21 shillings or $4.00 in New York Currency.(17)

   Leggings are appropriate legwear for virtually any 18th-century impression ­ military or civilian. They are perfect for folks just entering the hobby, as they are very easy to make and serve to temporarily camouflage inauthentic footwear. You will have to judge for yourself which of the styles outlined here is most appropriate for your impression, but whichever you choose keep in mind that leggings should fit snuggly and not sag, shift, or flop around over the course of the day.

Sample patterns for the different style leggings mentioned can be found here:

1) The inventory of a Mr. Job Brooks (died in April of 1770) includes, among other things, "leggins"valued at 2 shillings, six pence (The Methuen Historical Society, Massachusetts). The inventory of a Mr. Samuel Frye of Andover (died in December of 1774) lists a pair of "wool leggins" valued at 3 shillings. Also the inventory of a Mr. William Hastings (died in February of 1775), lists "brown wool leggins" (both of the above from the Andover Historical Society, Maryland).

The term "Indian Stockings" is used by Jonathan Carver in The Journals of Jonathan Carver and Related Documents, edited by John Parker, Minnesota Historical Society Press, 1976. "Indian Spatterdashers" is from An Historical Journal of the Campaigns in North America For the Years 1757, 1758, 1759, and 1760, by Captain John Knox, edited by Arthur G. Doughty, Toronto, The Champlain Society, 1914, pages 285-286.

"Country boots" are referred to on several occasions in Anburey, Thomas, Travels Through the Interior Parts of America in a Series of Letters by an Officer, Arno Press, 1969: "... three country peasants ... entered the room where the Colonel and his company were sitting ... pulling off their country boots all over mud, and then opened business ... (Vol. II. p 370, April 10, 1779 Charlottesville, Virginia)". Also see footnote 17.

2) See paintings of: The Death of Jane McCrea, Benjamin West's portrait of Colonel Guy Johnson, Indian camp at Point Levy (across form Quebec) by Davies, Joseph Brant by Wilhelm von M. Berczy, and others in: The American Heritage History of the American Revolution. Also the sketch titled "A Man and a Woman of the Outagamies [Fox]" in Carver.

3) I know I read this somewhere and now I can't find the source. I HATE when that happens.

4) "Ein Canadischer Bauer" is part of the series of Frederick von Germann drawings in the New York Public Library collection.

5) Knox, page 285-286. An 1807 sketch of Indians with leggings held in place with the two tie arrangement can be seen in The American Heritage Book of Indians, page 204. The Indians sometimes also used a thong or strap looped up to the waist belt to help keep the leggings up ­ for a pictorial reference of this see an engraving on page 11 of Robin May and G.A. Embleton, Osprey Men-at-Arms Series, Wolfe's Army.

6) Montgomery, Florence M., Textiles in America, 1650-1870, W. W. Norton & Company, New York

7) Average height was calculated from the inspection returns of the 55th Reg't of Foot in 1774 (WO 27/35), and from returns from the 24th, 31st, and 44th Foot in 1782 (WO 28/10; figures courtesy of Todd Braisted and Malcolm Dick).

8) For various examples of Indian leggings see: The American Heritage Book of Indians, pages 184, 195, 200-201, 204, and 211. Front seam leggings can be seen in the contemporary illustration Three Cherokee Chiefs (ca. 1762) on page 23, and two later-period illustrations; Osceola, a Seminole Chief (ca. 37), and The Chippewa chief Okeemakeequid, (1836), on pages 232 and 256 respectively. The Seminoles and Cherokees lived in the southeast, while the Chippewas occupied the upper Mississippi region.

9) Ibid, Knox.

10) All three quotes from: General Sir William Howe's Orderly Book, 1775-1776, Edited by Benjamin Franklin Stevens, London, 1890.

11) "British Orderly Book [17th Foot]" Wisconsin State Historical Society Library (microfilm copy). The 7th Foot reference is from an orderly book of Prescott's Company in the New Jersey Archives transcribed by Jim Kochan.

12) Public Records Office, Kew, England. Colonial Office, CO 5/5 171, p. 31: "Leggings, Pairs 10,000". War Office WO 34/232, p 367-370: "5,000 Pair of Leggings in Materials", Treasury Papers

T 27/33, pp 100-101: "8,848 Pair of Leggings in Materials".

"Dark brown cloth for leggings" is mentioned in the PRO T 27/31, p. 508. The 84th Foot order comes from Military Collector and Historian #38 (1986), page 76. White leggings were issued to some of the German troops in 1777 (William L. Stone, The Journal of Captain [Georg] Pausch, Albany, Arno Press, 1971, p 101).

"Blue broad duffils fit for soldier's leggings ..." was advertised by a New York merchant in the Royal Gazette in October of 1779 (JSAHR #46 (1968) page 248.

13) PRO, T 1/531: "20,000 pair of leggings, 2 yards of cloth per pair ...". Note that the buttons are short by 56 leggings (23 pair). Perhaps the 47th's light company was wearing moccasins and didn't need the buttons for the foot strap?

14) The von Germann illustration shows eight buttons and the legwear depicted could possibly be overalls, but they are definitely NOT gaiters. Hadden's Journal states that blanket coats and leggins were issued to the British troops in A Journal Kept in Canada and Upon Burgoyne's Campaign in 1776 & 1777 by Lieut. James Hadden, Royal Artillery, Joel Munsells Sons, Albany New York, 1884, p 38. Five buttons appear on gaitered trousers in an engraving of two different "American" soldiers in the Ann S. K. Brown military collection (see pp 81-82 of Sid Moody, '76: The World Turned Upside Down, Associated Press, 1975). Five buttons are also mentioned as being used on blue wool overalls in Pausch's Journal (p 93).

15) Bolton, Charles Knowles, The Private Soldier Under Washington, Charles Scribner's Sons. 1902. The statement is footnoted to: American Archives, IV, Volume two, 1486.

16) Ibid, Anburey, Vol II, p 45, Nov 25, 1777, in Cambridge Mass.

17) Ibid, Anburey, Vol II, p 54, Nov 25, 1777. Brickett had refused Continental currency for his boots and insisted on gold. The exchange rate is based on a 2 September, 1776, entry in General Howe's Orderly Book.

18) Ibid, Anburey, Vol I, p 197-8, April 6, 1777.